The Amblings and Ramblings of the Ingalls Family

The travels and thoughts of Heidi, Micah, and Frances...

Monday, May 14, 2007

Just Frances Sharon



Here is frances, frances, and more frances.

By looking at photos here you may be led to believe that the world (or at least our lives) only revolves around Frances. Well, Frances believes that, and she’s not entirely wrong. Actually there is a lot going on presently with the health project and agriculture project in Sangthong district Laos..and that explains why we have not had the moments to write to many of you or update this site. Again, we are unable to expound more on our lives—but we want to invite you to re-acquaint yourself with Frances….or some of the faces of Frances.

She’s just 7 months old now and has her first tooth, sits happily for long periods at a time, and has recently learned to stick out her tongue and blow 'raspberries'...

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Sustainable Agriculture Project Sangthong

Sustainable Agriculture Project Sangthong



Dear Friends and Relations,

I have finished modifying the page for our agriculture project, SAPS. On the side bar of this page, you will notice the project logo, which is a link to the project page (the logo embedded within this message is not a link). Please do visit to get a better idea of what I have been working on. As Heidi's project, the Sangthong Primary Health Care Project, is rather larger and already requires a significant amount of reporting to our funder, Brot fur die Welt, she has opted to relate her work to you through this blog.

Most sincerely, Micah

Sunday, January 14, 2007

Untitled Update





We do not particularly have news to relate. We wanted just to post some more recent pictures of Frances for you all! We are also aware that the content of this blog has almost exclusively to do with our personal lives, rather than professional. The reason for this is that we are in the throes of considering how best to go about this.
When these are more under way we will update you all.

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Baci for Blessed October

Traditionally, the Lowland Lao and other groups hold a baci for anyone who is sick, or has recently had a significant change in their life situation, who is coming away, coming, etc. In Buddhist society, this involves someone from the local temple who chants whilst everyone sits around a central stupa praying. At the end of this, everyone will tie small white strings around the wrist of the person(s) for whom the baci is held, whilst saying a blessing or a prayer for them. The strings then represent the prayers of the community, and are believed to bring the person protection or good luck, etc.

Catholics in Laos also carry out bacis. Our host father, Lyntee, explained it as ‘doing Lao custom but praying to our God.’ When we first came to Laos, we spent our initital months living with a Lao Catholic family at the western side of Vientiane. It was perhaps the most encouraging moment for us when our family gave us a baci. Micah had recently all-but succumbed to an infection and has spent a couple of weeks in hospital, we had recently moved back into our family’s home and were about to leave for Phialat to begin work. Perhaps one hundred people gathered for our baci, singing worship songs and praying for us corporately and then each, individually as they tied strings on our wrists.

This past month our family held one for Blessed October (Frances) as well. These pictures are from this ceremony.

Heidi, Micah and Blessed October in Vang Vieng



To Vang Vieng

On the 26th, we headed north to Vang Vieng for something of a reading holiday. Vang Vieng is a lovely area, surrounded by karst mountain formations.



During the American War, hundreds of people in this area lived for several years in the limestone caves in the these mountains throughout this region. The caves provided the only escape from the bombs which leveled any man made structures in the area.

Many of the new families in our district are from this area of Laos, which is home to many ethnic groups, particularly Kh’hmu and some Hmong.

Some of these pictures are from the market in Vang Vieng, where many wild animals are sold, included rats, bats, deer and birds.

Sunday, December 24, 2006

Christmas Blessings.....

The three of us are heading out to a Christmas Eve service at one of the Lao Christian churches here in Vientiane city. We want to share with you all some of the blessings we have received this Christmas....the first of which you'll see is our beautiful healthy daughter Frances.
She is now smiling, laughing, and "talking" all the time. This cannot quite be captured in a photograph--but here you can see some of her many new
expressions.









In these other pictures you can see the church in Hoi Kam Village in our district. It is the only legally recognised church in Sangthong district, and we are rejoicing this year that they were given permission to hold a Christmas service.


Hoi Kam Village is one of the poorest in our district, and the Sangthong Primary Healthcare Project I (Heidi) work with has been very involved here to bring clean water, latrines, and to train village health volunteers and a local midwife. Upon arriving at the Christmas service I was met by the midwife who shared with me about a woman whose newborn baby had just died the day before from an infection that I recognised was very preventable and could have been easily treated with access to medication. After the service I met this woman and it was painful to hold my own healthy baby in the face of her loss. But she asked God to bless me. It is hard for me to express to you as well as to her how blessed I was to witness God's presence and peace in that place. The simple church has a dirt floor and many inside it don't have enough food to eat or clothes to keep them warm this season. Yet I recognised many people I knew in that church, people whom I've met and worked with and didn't know were Christians. We were warmly welcomed and Frances was held and passed from hand to hand throughout the service. It was like finding our family in Laos. These pictures show only a glimpse of the church, some faces. I hope this Christmas as you meet with family and celebrate our Lord's coming into this world, you'll remember your Family all over the world. Maybe particularly you'll think of those parts of our Family who suffer from want of basic things, and those who have lost their children. May God bless you all with Joy and the Peace of God which passess all understanding. We'll write again soon to share with you more of our lives here and our Christmas.
Love and Merry Christmas,
Heidi, Micah, and Frances Ingalls

Saturday, December 09, 2006

Winter Chill and Blessed October


We have, yet again, been some time from our blog. We have returned to our work and daily lives in the village. Our projects are moving along happily but relentlessly. Frances, now two months old, sleeps well at night but is up with the roosters in our village (it is a fallacy, by the way, that roosters arise with the dawn- generally they begin to crow around 3:30 or 4).

We wanted mostly to post new pictures for you all, and to ramble somewhat less than usual. Two or three of the pictures do not need explanation as they are pictures of Frances sleeping.
Frances and Bear In hammock

These are pictures of Frances carried in her sling, which is how Heidi usually tows her around in her work in the villages. This method of carrying a baby in a sling across the front is characteristic of the Lowland Lao, who comprise the majority of our neighbours. Other groups, such as the Khmhu and Red and Black Thai, tend to carry the child on the back in order to leave their hands free for work.

Micah with Slinged Daughter Heidi carrying Frances in Sling

This is a picture of Frances being held by Nang San, a Khmhu woman with whom we have become friends through our work. Like many of the Khmhu in our district, she lives in a new village, made up of people who, due to national policies, have had to leave their homes. She is a widowed mother of four children and has been recently diagnosed with cancer.

It is our hope to post at least once more before Christmas, so if you have not given up checking this blog entirely, you may hear from us again soon.

All our love and blessings. Micah, Heidi, and Frances.

post-script: Frances does not go by Frances here (and, when she does, it is rather more like 'Flan suh'). Since before her birth we very much wanted to follow the Lao practice of giving two names. Accordingly, we have named her Dtulapon, or Blessed October.

Friday, November 10, 2006

Coming to an End in Bangkok


Having received Frances' citizenship and passport, we are all but ready to head home to Laos. These weeks here have been both tiring and enjoyable (perhaps more the former than the latter, though it is hard to tell). Whatever they have been, we do at least have something to show for it. She is a lovely thing, and easy to love.




We do long for the Wolery- our home in Laos, and for a return to the lives we have made there. Bangkok is a large city-- through and through. I suppose that each city has its own character, but I think it also true to say that, at the end of the day, a city is still a city, and we miss our forests and hills.

We have had several visitors in these last two weeks. Some are featured in our pictures here. The little girl is named Anna, the daughter of good friends of our here. The little boy lying beside Frances is Innes, the younger brother of Anna. The picture does not do him justice. At just eight months he (only slightly) outweighs Heidi...

St Francis of Assisi

St Francis' Cross



Although we are only just beginning to acquaint ourselves with St Francis, and thus are ill-qualified at present to give you a worthy account of his life, we wanted to at least give you a faint idea of the nature of the person for whom we have named our daughter.
In doing so, we wanted to write rather more about his theology and his philosophy, than about his history, per se. But history must provide the background. The life of St Francis is known to us largely through anecdotes. The book ‘The little Flowers of St Francis’ is one such collection of these stories. More complete and historically-oriented biographies have been written as well.
The man we know as St. Francis of Assisi was born Giovanni di Bernardone in 1182, to an Italian father and a French mother. From youth he was raised as a wealthy merchant’s son, known for his love of festivities, of fine clothes and wine. While he was still quite young, however, two things occurred to change the course of his life and, I do not believe it exaggeration to say, the course of western Christendom.
Saint Francis of Assisi The first was his meeting with a beggar. Whilst conducting business for his father, Francis was approached by a beggar asking alms. At first, the man was repulsed from the shop. Francis, however, ran through Assisi until he could find the man, gave the fellow all he had, and swore that he would never again refuse the requests of the poor.



The second was his vision in the ruins of the Church of St. Damian, on the outskirts of Assisi. Francis had joined the military, but had been returned home due to a prolonged illness. Dejected at this loss (rather more from wounded pride and thwarted ambition) he dwindled into a sort of depression, spending many days praying and asking God what had become of his life. One day, whilst praying in the church of St. Damian, the Lord spoke to him three times saying, ‘Francis, rebuild my house which, you can see, is falling into ruins.’ Thinking this to mean the ruins of the church within which he was praying, Francis sold his horse and his belongings, and some of the belongings of his father, and began to rebuild St. Damian’s. His father, who was rather more a fellow of business than of Christ, reported Francis to the magistrates, and had him arrested for theft. Francis returned all that had been taken and, more than this, took all of his worldly belongings except a rough cloth shirt, and threw them at his father’s feet, saying, ‘up until this time I have called Pietro Bernardone father, but now I am the servant of God. Not only the money but everything that can be called his I will restore to my father, even the very clothes he has given me.’ From this point on, Francis renounced worldly possessions and took on the life of a wandering peasant, devoted to rebuilding the churches in that area of Italy.
Already this history has taken longer than expected, but I think the events surrounding his life are of some importance for understanding the person. A little more must be mentioned. He was granted permission by Pope Innocent III to found a new order, which he called the Fratres Minores, of ‘Lesser Brothers.’ These, of course, became those whom we know as the Franciscan Friars, who, quite original to the time, were socialists and itinerants, claiming neither individual property nor home. During his lifetime, the number of friars grew to many thousands, travelling all over Europe and the Middle East, preaching to all classes of people in all walks of life.

St Francis Receiving the Stigmata, by Giotto St Francis by CaravaggioIn the latter years of his life, while praying and fasting on Mount Alverno, he saw a vision of an angelic bird or a seraph, crucified, in the sky. He said that while this vision lasted he felt an unutterable grief and pity which overcame him. When the vision faded, he found that he had been pierced through the hands, the feet, and his side.
So on 8 May 1213, Francis received the sign of the Stigmata.

His history now aside, I wanted to mention the particulars of his theology.
Francis was born into the so-called Dark Ages. With the fall of the Roman Empire, Europe had fallen into a period of intellectual and artistic paralysis. Warring kingdoms and barbarian hordes filled the vacuum of power which was left by Rome’s decline, crippling trade and scholarship. It was during these times that Christendom waged the Crusades. Chesterton writes of this time, astutely, it seems—as a time of purgation for Christendom. Scholarship and natural theology had, until the advent of Christianity, been the domain of Paganism. Although the intellectual and philosophical traditions of the Greeks and the Romans are the basis for much of our western culture, there was a time when these traditions bore with them darker marks than they bear for us today. The quaint and very human mythologies of the gods had grown dark in a time when the decadence of Rome was darker even than the Colosseum with its murder of slaves and Christians for entertainment. The religion of Greece and Rome were religions of nature worship, for they worshipped the forces of sex, growth, and death-- anthropomorphised into the pantheon. In terms of the environmental theology of Francis, I think this is worth understanding better than I do. For this was, and is, one of the great messages of Francis- the reunification of the natural world and humanity. Chesterton writes, ‘it was no good telling such people to have a natural religion full of stars and flowers; there was not a flower or even a star that had not been stained… it was no good to preach natural religion to people to whom nature had grown as unnatural as any religion.’ The Dark Ages was the necessary purgation of these stains on European civilisation and the consciousness of the Church which was, at that time, largely European. The Church had to be rid of the perversity of the natural religion of Rome to make room for the natural religion of the Son of God, the one by whom and for whom the whole Creation exists.
St Francis in Ecstasy by Caravaggio By the time of St Francis, it may be said, the Dark Ages had done their work.
‘Gradually against this grey background beauty begins to appear, as something really fresh and delicate and above all surprising… the flowers and the stars have recovered their first innocence.

Fire and Water are felt to be worthy to be the brother and the sister of a saint. The purge of paganism was complete at last… Water is no longer that water into which slaves were flung to feed the fishes. Fire is no longer that fire through which children were passed to Moloch…
…while it was yet the twilight of the Dark Ages, a figure appeared silently and suddenly on a little hill above the city of Assisi, dark against the fading darkness. For it was the end of a long and stern night, a night of vigil, not unvisited by stars. He stood with his hands lifted, as in so many statues and pictures, and about him was a burst of birds singing; and behind him was the break of day.’

It has been said that St Francis ‘anticipated all that is most liberal and sympathetic in the modern mood; the love of nature; the love of animals; the sense of social compassion; the sense of the spiritual dangers of prosperity and even of property.’

He saw beyond the created world as a merely something which points us to the goodness of God, but saw the natural world as our sibling in Creation. It was in this inspiration that Francis wrote the Canticle of the Sun, the first Italian poem and best known of Francis’ writings:

Most high, all-powerful, all good, Lord! All praise is yours, all glory, all honour And all blessing. To you alone, Most High, do they belong. No mortal lips are worthy To pronounce your name.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through all that you have made, And first my lord Brother Sun, Who brings the day; and light you give to us through him. How beautiful is he, how radiant in all his splendour! Of you, Most High, he bears the likeness.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through Sister Moon and Stars; In the heavens you have made them, bright And precious and fair.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through Brothers Wind and Air, And fair and stormy, all the weather's moods, By which you cherish all that you have made.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through Sister Water, So useful, lowly, precious, and pure.
All praise be yours, my Lord, through Brother Fire, Through whom you brighten up the night. How beautiful he is, how gay! Full of power and strength.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through Sister Earth, our mother, Who feeds us in her sovereignty and produces Various fruits and coloured flowers and herbs.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through those who grant pardon For love of you; through those who endure Sickness and trial. Happy those who endure in peace, By you, Most High, they will be crowned.

All praise be yours, my Lord, through Sister Death, From whose embrace no mortal can escape. Woe to those who die in mortal sin! Happy those She finds doing your will! The second death can do no harm to them.

Praise and bless my Lord, and give him thanks, And serve him with great humility.
The work of St Francis in this regard is yet incomplete. Perhaps more strongly with the advent of Protestantism, there has been a widening of the gap between the human and the non-human Creation. Few among us would speak of Brothers Wind and Air, or Sister Water, or Sister Earth. Yet such an understanding is, I think, fundamental to a proper theology of God and of our place in His world and in the story of redemption. For the redemption of the Cross was a redemption of the whole Creation. As it is written, ‘the creation waits in eager expectation for the sons of God to be revealed. For the creation was subjected to frustration, not by its own will, but by the will of the one who subjected it, in hope that the creation itself will be liberated from its bondage to decay and brought into the glorious freedom of the children of God.’

There is much else that we could write here about St Francis of Assisi, but I have become carried away already. One thing else which is worthy of note, was his visit to the Saracen sultan Melek-el-Kamel in 1219, where he sought to bring an end to the Crusades by testifying about Christ to the Muslim leaders. Rather unorthodoxly, he offered to throw himself into the fire on the condition that, should he emerge alive, they would acknolwedge Christ as Lord.

St Francis Apppearing before the Sultan by Giotto St Francis Preaching to the Birds, by Giotto


But at present we shan't go further. When we knew that we were pregnant, we determined to name the child Frances. Interestingly, at least for us, she was born just two days after the Feast of St Francis, which many Christians throughout the world celebrate on October 4th.

Friday, October 27, 2006

The Further Adventures of...



‘Adventures’ is, perhaps, a misnomer. We continue to get along well, though seldom leave the house. We are becoming more used to the ways of this child, but find that getting out is a bit more work than pleasure. An unfortunate selection of chicken peddlers laid waste to what energy we did have, but we all seem to be recovering quickly enough.
Heidi’s mum, Julie, will be staying with us a for a few more days before going to back to Seattle.
For our part, it looks like we may be staying in Bangkok until the early part of November, as we are still awaiting US citizenship and a passport for Frances before we can return to Laos. We hope this will give us more time to explore Bangkok, though we have yet to do so. Micah was able to take an early morning excursion to the flower markets along the Chao Praya river bank, and up past the Royal Palace. The military who has taken over the Thai government has stepped up their presence in Bangkok this week following reports of Thaksin secretly re-entering the country. All very exciting… that is, for people who spend most of their days in-of-doors.

Sunday, October 22, 2006

Frances Growing




I have to apologise for having gone so long without an update on Frances. Over the past two weeks Frances has been visited by an unending stream of well-wishers. Friends and co-workers from Laos have come to visit, as has Heidi's mum, who is staying with us for two weeks. The staff of our apartment drop by not infrequently to see whether she can understand Thai. She is growing well and healthy, and she seldom ever cries. Our only trouble is that she insists on sleeping when we want to squeeze her.


We also want our families and friends at home to know how very grateful we are for the many, many presents and packages (we are planning to open a baby-apparel shop when we return to Vientiane)- and messages of encouragement.

We will write again soon, hopefully with less of a delay this time...

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Frances Turns Home



We have promised ourselves we will not become the sort of parents who inflict endless reams of photographs of their newborn, freeze-frame-esque, upon their unsuspecting friends and relations. The temptation is, however, considerable.

We have returned home today with our Frances in tow, together with our friends Larry, Jane, and Zaki Nafziger-Snider, with whom we will be spending the next couple days.

Frances continues to sleep and eat, etc., but is considerate enough to allow us an hour repose between each bodily function, for which we are grateful. She is lovely, though, and very much worth the effort.

Monday, October 09, 2006

The Ongoing Event of Frances



In the past 64 hours, we have slept but four. Frances is hale and hearty, though, for which we are thankful. For the time being, we are staying at the hospital to give Heidi and Frances time to recover before we head back to our apartment in Bangkok. Between diapers and breastfeeding, we have found some time to read, Heidi reading Chesterton's biography of St. Francis, and Micah reading Ivanhoe aloud to Frances as she has yet to become literate. It seems to us she appreciates the Scottish brogue, but perhaps we are guessing.

Friday, October 06, 2006

We Welcome Frances Sharon Ingalls into Our Family


A daughter has been born to us this day! This afternoon we arrived at the hospital for a routine checkup, only to discover that our child was already on the way, and was safely delivered at 7:15 pm, at Samitivej Hospital in Bangkok, full two weeks before we expected her, weighing 6 1/2 lbs.

We have decided to name her Frances in honour of St. Francis of Assisi, whose life was devoted to the poor and to Creation.

We shall write more presently. God be with you all.

Monday, October 02, 2006

A Cursory Update

Dear Friends and Relations,

As you may be able to tell, this site is currently evolving. Over the past week we have been updating this site with a long retrospective history-- beginning three years ago. We are aware that there is a number of you who may be bored by your first visit to this site, and thus not return, and never have an idea of what we are currently doing. Thus, I am posting this to give you all a current, though brief, idea of what we are up to.

A year and a half ago, we moved to Laos to work with the Mennonite Central Commitee. Heidi accepted a position with MCC's Sangthong Primary Health Care Project, functioning as a Public Health Advisor (Heidi completed her Masters of Science in Public Health in Developing Countries, through the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine).

Micah manages the Sustainable Agriculture Project Sangthong. We live in a village area and plan to stay until the spring of 2008.

A more detailed update is forthcoming.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

Hoi An Market

Despite its becoming an increasingly popular tourist attraction, Hoi An stills maintains a feeling of being rather more local than otherwise.


The market is a good example of this, where hundreds of people from the region come every morning to sell their wares and their vegetables, and whatnot.



The picture below shows old women selling betel nut, a substance chewed by people through south and southeast asia, and elsewhere, said to be a narcotic.

Housefronts of Hoi An



Taking photographs of the housefronts of Hoi An is something of an analogue to taking photos of the faces along Oxford's drainpipes. They are, however, pcituresque, though I doubt these do them justice.





To the far left is a picture of the Vin Hung, the hotel where we stayed.

Hoi An, Viet Nam



Though having been settled early in the first century, Hoi An became an important trading centre during the 15th century, serving as a point of trade, perhaps the most important point of trade, for southeast asia, linking China, Japan, India, the Middle East and the Europe.
Today, the influence of the various ethnic groups can be seen throughout the city, with Chinese and Japanese architecture and homes, etc. In particular, the Chinese have left several large meeting halls, all specific to the region from which each Chinese group had come- thus a meeting hall for the Cantonese, a hall for the Hunan, etc. The Japanese covered bridge is also a place of note, which dates back to the 1700s.







Hoi An was declared a World Heritage Site in recognition of the pivotal role it played in the development of world trade, and for the history of its various inhabitants.
Hoi An is also known for Cao Lau, a noodle dish which, traditionally, must be made from the water of a particular well in the heart of the Hoi An.





We stayed here for several days during which time resided in an old Chinese merchants warehouse built in the 1800s, which has since been made into a hotel.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

Van Mieu, Hanoi





Whilst in Hanoi, we visited Van Mieu, the historic Temple of Literature, built during the Ly and Tran dynasties, beginning in 1010 AD. This Confucian temple was built to honour those scholars who were awarded their doctorate whilst studying there during the 700 years that it operated.

The final examination for each student was oral, and was administered by the emporer, who would question the student for several hoursin matters if history and philosophy, and administration.

In 1484, the emperor Le Thanh Tong began to inscribe the names of the graduating doctors on steles, the turtles.

Hanoi, Viet Nam
















After leaving Halon Bay, we travelled down to Hanoi, to meet with MCC Viet Nam,and to see the city. MCC Viet Nam, like MCC Laos, has had a long history in the region. MCC Viet Nam was at work throughout the Viet Nam War, characteristically living and working with people the both sides of the conflict. Hanoi itself needs little explanation, I expect.

Halong Bay, Viet Nam




Every year, the MCC Laos staff take a holiday together—all foreigners and nationals, all adults and children. For us, this was a wonderful time to be together with the national staff in a place where we could all be foreigners together. I would not wish to overstate the matter, but I think it is reasonable to say that the very state of being a foreigner is by far and away the most difficult thing of our being here or, indeed, being in a place. This year, MCC travelled together to Viet Nam, and for us this was a singularly rewarding time of being foreigners together for a time, however brief.
We travelled overland by bus to the coast of Viet Nam and, after a brief stop in Vinh, we drove up to Halong Bay, in northern Viet Nam. Halong Bay is a waterbody filled with islands and caves which, like the caves of northern Laos, served as the bases of the early communist revolutionaries.







Angkor, Cambodia






Angkor is the legendary capitol of the Khmer empire. Built in 944 AD, Angkor was built into a vast complex of temples and dwellings which eventually abandoned in 1431 aftre it was acked by the Thais. For four hundred years it remained uninhabited, and was thought to be a myth until a French botanist, Mahout, rediscovered the ruins in 1860.
Today, the site has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site, with impressive temples (largely Hindu, largely Vishnuvite) in various states of decay or restoration. If anyone fancies seeing something of great historical significance, but also with a feeling of ‘not yet having been found’, Angkor is a wonderful place to visit. The tourists are, however, coming in increasingly larger droves year by year…
Siem Reap, the nearest city, is also an important place o study the Khmer Rouge, who controlled this region for many years. We were able to visit some sites and meet some people affected during this time—I am sure I have not seen something more horrible than what was done here during that period.

Tonle Sap, Cambodia






Tonle Sap, or Great Lake, is the largest freshwater body is southeast asia, covering 16,000 square kilometers during the monsoon season, during which time rainfall is so great as to reverse the flow of the Mekong River. For centuries, Cambodia has depended on this water body for sustenance. Today more than 3 million people live on or around this lake, which provides more than 60 percent of Cambodia’s protein intake.
This year, we travelled to Siem Reap for an MCC conference, during which time we had a chance to visit the lake and see some of the work that is going on with the IUCN and other organisations seeking to protect the lake and the vulnerable people groups who depend on this lake for their livelihoods. Tonle Sap is particularly interesting in that it is home to a few thousand people who live on boats, lashed together, creating a small city complete with markets and gardens. These people are particularly vulnerable in that they do not own any property except their houses which move from place to place depending on water levels.

In addition to seeing Tonle Sap, we were able to spend a couple days amongst the ruins of Angkor, about which I will write presently.

Xieng Khouang, Laos





Xieng Khouang, in northeastern Laos, was the site of the heaviest bombing during America’s Secret War in the 1970s. The effects of this time are apparent, even from the air, where the topography is pocked with, moonlike, with craters measuring 6 meters across. Today, it is heavily populated with Hmong, the ethnic group from which America extracted many of its hired soldiers during the war.
At Hmong New Year (in November), there are held bullfights, as well as courting ritual for young people, etc. We didn’t include pictures of this but, in effect, it involves unmarried boys and girls standing in lines opposite one another, throwing a ball back and forth between each pair. Presumably, this gives them time to talk together, after which they can speak to their parents about getting married. This goes on for days and days during the New Year.
We also have included pictures of the ancient stone jars for which that area is known. While their origins are uncertain, they are believed to have been funerary jars or, if you talk to local people, very large jugs of alcohol (typical response…). In any case, they are believed to be 2,000-3,000 years old. The American bombers were considerate enough to only destroy some of them…
Many of the people we work with in Sangthong district originated in this province. During the bombings, most people were unable to farm for seven years, except at night. During that time, many people fled to other parts of Laos. When we first moved to Laos, we lived with a Lao host family, the father of which is a lay-priest at the Catholic Church. His whole village was destroyed during the bombings, including his little sister whom he was unable to get out of their house before the planes came. This sort of story is typical for people from this province. For those who stayed, unexploded ordnances are a constant threat to children and farmers working in their fields.